John's Musings


Yeah, Me Neither

Maytag Washer Repair LNC6764A71 Water Pump

Let me start out by saying if you are buying a new washer resist the urge to buy one that has a fancy LED display with push button controls and it connects to the internet to let you know when it is done. If that kind of washer (or dryer or refrigerator) breaks you are DOOMED to pay a repairman big bucks to fix it. Washers need to agitate and spin. The cheapest washer at Lowe's with the pull out and spin big giant knob is the best one to get. Not only is it inexpensive, it is cheap to repair and easy to fix. A motor drives a pump and the tub. All it is is a motor, a pump, a tub, and bearings. Any fool can fix even the most horrific failure.


Your washer does not need internet access. It just doesn't.


I have a LNC6764A71 washer that I bought in 2003. It was in storage for about 10 years so it is still basically brand new and too nice to replace just yet.



Yesterday as soon as the spin cycle kicked on the metal to metal noise was God awful. I shut it down and started an inspection right away. A quick Google reveals in a couple of links that it is most likely my water drain pump. Sure enough it was. I enjoy fixing my own stuff. No way I'm paying $200 for some guy to show up to fix a $350 washing machine.


Find your model number and then look it up on one of the parts sites. Take note of the Rev number as well.



Parts sites such as this for my model washing machine are abundant and you can order straight from them. Notice I have selected the Drain Pump for a Series 19 washer. That is the importance of the Rev number above.




However $80 for a new pump is crazy. I strongly recommend heading over to eBay and checking for the required part number (PS11741803). I found a third party pump for $24 and the original Whirlpool pump (Whirlpool actually made this Maytag washer) costs $55 or so. I went ahead and ordered the Whirlpool OEM original part.


Let's dig in: Step 1 unplug and pull the drain line out of the wall.



Now let's get 'er on her side. We want to remove the gray panel. 3 Screws. So we can see the offending pump.



Before we remove it go to the bottom of the machine and rotate the belt off the pulleys. The pump we are changing is in the upper left had corner of the picture below. See all the black stuff around the bearing? Bad.



Now let's remove the 3 screws and the rubber tubing line's by loosening the clamps with pliers. Squeeze and slide. The large one is the water pump inlet and the smaller one is the outlet that pumps water out. It's your drain line. The pump will be full of water. Plan accordingly for a quarter gallon of water or so to drain out.




Now the machine screws that hold the pump down.


That's it. Seriously. Remove and inspect. See the corrugated metal protruding? That is not supposed to be there. That is what is grinding on the bottom mounting plate causing all the noise.



And there is an obvious bearing failure. Look at all the black bearing dust. Diagnosis: EPIC FAIL



Got the replacement part.



The repair goes like this:


- Bolt new pump in with the three bolts you removed from the old one.




- Put the 2 rubber tubing lines for the pump inlet and outlet back on and ensure they are clamped securely




- Spin the belt back on the bottom



- Plug it in and stick the drain line in the wall.

- Wash some clothes with a smile knowing you saved a couple hundred dollars.







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